Frequently Asked Questions
- Do You Have a Waiting List for Out-of-Stock Items
- Why do you categorize saddles "road" and "touring"?
- Is there any advantage to the copper rivets?
- I want a honey saddle but its not in the pulldown list.
- I'm female. Should I buy a "woman's" saddle.
- How do I use Proofide
- I turn the nut but the tension doesn't change.
If you would like to be notified about an item that is temporarily out of stock please send an e-mail to bill(at)wallbike(dot)com. The SUBJECT of the mail should be the NAME OF THE ITEM. Include the size or color if appropriate. When we get shipments in I scan my inbox to see if anyone is waiting for the new items.
When you send the request I'll try to reply with an estimate of availability.
The terms "road" and "touring" are an attempt to summarize a bike setup and a riding style. A road bike has the handlebars much lower than the saddle. The rider is likely to have an aggressive style. A touring bike would more likely have the bars level with the saddle. A touring rider would be more casual, pacing for the long ride. Of course these are generalizations don't touch the many nuances of each of our riding styles.
Brooks' basic rivet is a small, hollow, steel rivet that is set with a machine press. These steel rivets are all silver-colored but there have been copper versions in the past. Large, solid-copper rivets are used on many models of Brooks saddles. The solid copper rivets are hand set. The advantage of the copper rivets are mainly aesthetic. Should it be necessary the copper rivet can be re-shaped with a hammer. This reshaping is very seldom required.
The size of the rivet head is not significant because the pull is sidways, on the shaft of the rivet.
We try to have the full range of all of our stock on hand. Sometimes that's not possible. When an item has variations on a pull-down menu we remove out-of-stock variations from the pull down. It could be saddle color, seatpost size, or any thing that has that kind of selection. This way people can't order things that we don't have.
Stand-alone items that don't need a selection menu can be listed as out-of-stock.
Maybe, maybe not.
The "women's" saddles are shorter and usually a little wider then their non-gendered counterparts. These shorter saddles work fine for many riders but some women report that it feels like something is missing. We can use the nose of the saddle to give subtile input to the steering of the bike. Most of the time we don't notice we're doing this until the nose gets shorter. If you are a short woman the 'S' model will probably be fine. If you are medium height, or taller, it might be worth thinking about the whole range of saddles from a manufacturer.
The forums at Team Estrogen have some good discussions of Brooks saddles for women.
Proofide is a leather treatment, or conditioner. It is intended to replenish the oils that dry out of leather over time.
To treat a saddle we take a small bit of Proofide and rub it into the leather with our fingers. Vigorous rubbing with thumb or heel of hand will help break in the saddle. We let the saddle sit for a few hours so the treatment can soak in. There will be a dusty residue to buff off and you are ready to go.
Too much leather conditioner will over moisten the saddle and could lead to the saddle loosing its shape. Too much conditioer will bleed out and bring the leather dye with it.
The leather of a Brooks saddle is under tension all of the time. When it comes to leather care, tension is the difference between a Brooks saddle and boots, equestrian equipment, car seats, etc. That's why oily conditioners are not recommended. If the fibers of the leather get too moist they can stretch with the tension.
The Brooks tensioning mechanism can be a little confusing. Basically, if you are facing the saddle, you turn the nut clockwise. Your goal is more thread in front of the nut.
But - calling the tension pin a 'bolt' is a little misleading. (I have
been guilty of this.) The pin doesn't bolt anything together. It is a
threaded shaft and the only thing that threads onto it is the nut. The
tension pin rests in the cup of the 'nosepiece' on the head end and the
nut pushes against the 'tension shackle' on the other end.
There is nothing anchoring the pin in the nosepiece. If the tension gets too loose the pin will spin with the nut. The only thing to do is hold onto the pin some way while you tighten the nut. Sometimes a finger on the pin will be sufficient, sometimes it will take pliers. When there is sufficient pressure against the shackle then the pin should hold.
Ti-railed saddles hava an allen-head pin that makes the job much easier. A long time ago Brooks put wrenchable pins in the saddles but, I'm told, they had problems with riders tightening their saddles too much and making warranty claims. That's why tensioning is a little difficult.
Loose tension mechanisms are the main cause of broken tension pins and squeaking saddles. It is important to maintain the tension on a leather saddle.